Sunday, October 6, 2013

A Take on Vitello Tonnato



My grandmother gave me this amazing cookbook for Christmas, and I have to admit that I haven't tried nearly enough recipes out of it.  The cookbook is A Year in My Kitchen by Skye Gyngell and it takes you through the seasons with such splendor that I unfortunately rarely have the time to piece together these extraordinary recipes.  Usually they are weekend projects that my husband and I end up rating as to whether or not the taste was worth the effort.  It's become a rather regular hobby that I am proud to take part in.

Anyway, I decided that I was going to make Vitello Tonnato, which sounded rather spectacular and gave me the excuse to go and visit the amazing butcher that is close to our home.  I was lucky enough to have the owner behind the case, and when I told him that I needed a cut of veal to poach, he was very appalled.  Apparently the Germans don't enjoy poaching their veal as the Italians do (or so I was led to believe by this cookbook).  I should also note that the owner of this particular butcher shop and European deli is a German man in his 70-80's, and when you buy his meat, you do what he says.  So when he told me that I should slow roast this veal, that's exactly what I did.

This recipe includes an amazing homemade mayonnaise recipe, that you flavor with tuna and anchovies.  The result is this amazing salty dressing for your veal and salad.  Seriously.  Like, I'm never going to eat salad dressing that doesn't include fish again.  Also, my husband and I have decided that we are never buying mayonnaise again.  I may be lying, but how would you know?

Here is my German-Italian adaptation of Vitello Tonnato.


Vitello Tonnato Insalata with Homemade Tuna Mayo

Ingredients:

Veal
3 lb boneless veal breast
2 cups of beef stock
1 onion, peeled and quartered
2 celery stalks, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
2 bay leaves
salt and pepper

Tuna Mayonnaise
3 egg yolks
2 lemons, juiced and divided
2 tsp Dijon mustard
salt and pepper
3/4+ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 7oz. tin of good quality tuna, drained
2 tbsp capers
3 canned anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained




Basil Oil
3 large bunches of fresh basil (Think lush, hand-fulls from the garden.)
1 clove of garlic
salt and pepper
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil


To Assemble 
3 ripe Roma tomatoes
arugula leaves
lemon juice
olive oil
olives (The original recipe recommends Niçoise or Ligurian, I'm partial to kalamata.  It's not like we haven't already deviated from the original "Italian" version, I don't think anyone will blame you if you choose an olive you enjoy.)
1 tbsp capers
3 tbsp basil oil




  1. Set the oven to 325ºF with the rack in the middle.
  2. Season the veal with salt and pepper and place in a deep baking dish.  Add the onions, celery, carrots, bay leaves, and beef stock to the baking dish around the roast.  Cover loosely with foil and bake in the oven for an hour, basting with the liquid 2-3 times.
  3. After an hour, remove the veal from the oven and allow to rest on a cutting board until you are ready to assemble.
  4. While the veal is roasting, prepare the mayonnaise.
  5. Place the egg yolks in the bowl of a food processor and add the lemon juice from 1 lemon, mustard, and the salt and pepper to taste.  Pulse briefly to combine.  While the food processor is running, drizzle the olive oil through the feed tube in an even stream until it is all incorporated and the mixture emulsifies (It should resemble a yellowish, slightly runny mayonnaise).  Pour the mayonnaise out of the food processor into a bowl and set aside.
  6. Add the tuna, 2 tbsp lemon juice, capers, anchovy fillets, and a grind or two of pepper to the food processor and pulse until smooth.  Add the mayonnaise back to the food processor with the tuna mixture and process until incorporated and smooth.  Pour the tuna mayonnaise out of the food processor and set aside until ready to assemble.
  7. While the veal is finishing roasting, wash out the food processor and prepare to make the basil oil.
  8. Rinse the basil and place it into the bowl of the food processor with the garlic, salt, and pepper, and process until the basil and garlic is minced.  Drizzle the olive oil through the feed tube and continue to blend until you have a uniform green purée.  Taste and adjust for seasoning, then set aside for assembly.
  9. When you are ready to assemble the plates, slice the veal as thin as possible.  Cut the tomatoes into uneven chunks.  Toss the arugula with some of the remaining lemon juice and olive oil.  
  10. Layer the arugula, tomato, and slices of veal on a plate.  Spoon the mayonnaise on top of the veal.  Scatter the plates with the olives and capers.  Drizzle the basil oil over everything.  Serve immediately, and enjoy!


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